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Sunday, 10 April 2011 06:31 |
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AS THE WARM weather months approach, many of us will begin to look at lighter, more refreshing beverages to enjoy. Among the many choices are the myriad of white wines available wherever you shop. Today, I'd like to look at one of the lesser known of those wines -- Grüner Veltliner.
Grüner Veltliner is a white wine grape grown primarily in Austria as well as the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Some experts believe that the grape's origins date back to the reign of the Great Roman Empire. Its name is thought to derive from Veltlin or Valtellina, located in northern Italy. What is known is that the name Grüner Veltliner first appeared in print in 1855. Before that time, the grape was known as Grüner Muskatellar. It wasn't until the 1930's that the name Grüner Veltliner was established as the grapes official name.
Today, Grüner Veltliner is Austria's most important white wine grape. It accounts for about one-third of all white grapes planted there. What makes this particular wine so unique is its versatility. It produces wine styles that span a broad range from light-bodied, easy drinking, fruity wines to complex, full-bodied wines. This broad range of styles gives us wines that fit almost any budget or occasion.
Although Grüner Veltliner is generally used to make still wines, it's also used to make a sparkling wine known as Sekt. The still wines are moderately aromatic. You'll find hints of fresh green beans, lentils, stone fruit, citrus, white pepper, and spice on the nose. Aged Grüner Veltliner has notes of honey. Oak-aged Grüner Veltliner is rare because it doesn't need the influence of new oak barrels to affect its flavor and aroma. Instead, they are usually aged in stainless steel tanks or other neutral vessels. Sometimes, old oak casks are used because they do not lend any flavor to wines aged in them.
The largest wine region in Austria is known as Niederosterreich or Lower Austria, located along the Danube River just north of Vienna. One of its sub-regions, Wachau, has developed a classification system that can be used by those new to Grüner Veltliner to help determine which of the many styles of this unique wine suits their taste. Bottles of Grüner Veltliner from Wachau include one of the following terms: Steinfeder, Federspiel, or Smaragd. Steinfeder denotes a wine that is light-bodied and fruity with an ABV of 11% or lower. Federspiel signals a wine that is classic, typically medium-bodied, mildly fruity, but with more structure than Steinfeder and an ABV between 11% and 12.5%. Smaragd indicates wines that are complex, full-bodied, well-structured and concentrated with an ABV above 12.5%, but usually below 13.5%. Remember that these classifications only apply to Grüner Veltliner from Wachau, but they are helpful when evaluating Grüner Veltliner from Austria in general.
As I said earlier, Grüner Veltliner is quite versatile. It pairs well with a wide array of foods including those foods that pair well with other wines. I like it because it goes well with foods that are otherwise difficult to pair with wines. If you're a vegetable eater, Grüner Veltliner compliments many of your favorites from the farmers market: artichokes, arugula, asparagus, avocado, broccoli, collard greens, green beans, kale, spinach, squash, and zucchini. For those who like their place at the top of the food chain, try Grüner Veltliner with roasted pork loin, veal, lobster, sweetbreads, scallops and shrimp. I'm a huge sushi consumer and Grüner Veltliner pairs very well with all of my favorites, including spicy tuna. If you're a wine and cheese person, Grüner Veltliner pairs well with blue cheese and goat cheese.
Surprisingly, Oregon has become a producer of Grüner Veltliner wines. The mild climate is perfect for growing this cool-climate grape. The oldest vines are said to be located in Salem, OR at Vitae Springs Vineyard. They were planted in 1981. The Oregon versions of this wine are amazingly complex with a variety of flavors including vanilla, peach, nectarine, grapefruit and white pepper. Most of the wines from Oregon are fermented in stainless steel, but a few are blended with wines fermented in neutral oak. Rumor has it that they are all very good.
I've tried several Grüner Veltliner over the years and they were all good. The one that sticks out most in my mind is Hugl Weine Grüner Veltliner. It's pretty intense and concentrated with pleasant citrus and grapefruit aromas with a hint of white pepper. It's full-bodied and dry with a firm mineral backbone that allows it to pair well with just about anything. It's very reasonably priced and great to have around for any occasion.
So, there you have it, Grüner Veltliner -- uncorked. As I mentioned at the beginning, the warm weather months are approaching. Grüner Veltliner is definitely an excellent wine to have around for summer gatherings. The wide array of foods that magically appear at such events will no doubt pair well with this versatile viticultural marvel. If you haven't experienced this wine yourself, I'd recommend giving it a try. As always, whether drinking Grüner Veltliner with char grilled shrimp at a cookout or alone on your back deck, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!! |
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 19 April 2011 06:42 |
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Sunday, 03 April 2011 09:08 |
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TOSCANA, OR TUSCANY as it is known to most, is considered the cradle of modern European culture. Those who have visited have noted that there are treasures from every age within the cities of Toscana. These include the impressive architecture and art of Florence, the Roman baths and Etruscan theater at Fiesole, and the magnificent Gothic structures located in the medieval town of Siena. Toscana was also the home of influential scientists Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo Galilei, as well as famed explorer Amerigo Vespucci. It is also a famous wine producing region where a very well-known wine has been produced for many years. It's called Chianti.
Chianti is a red wine which was traditionally made by blending sangiovese and canaiolo, both red wine grapes, with malvasia and/or trebbiano, which are both white wine grapes. Sadly, at the end of World War II, Chianti became known for being a cheap wine that was easy to drink and great with spaghetti. The formula for Chianti was developed in the nineteenth century by Baron Bettino Ricasoli. His family had been making wine in Tuscany for well over 600 years. His formula helped make Chianti more drinkable, but it also hastened its demise. The more popular it became, the more white wine was used to lighten it. By the time World War II had ended, white wine made up about 30% of some Chiantis. The increased demand for the wine caused wine-makers to use inferior grapes. The poor location of some vineyards, over-production, and continued dilution of the wine with white-wine grapes caused the quality of Chianti to collapse.
Fortunately, the rise of non-traditional Chianti in the early 1970's helped bring Chianti back to life. Like France, Italy has very strict wine laws. In 1971, Piero Antinori began making Tignanello, a red wine made with sangiovese grapes. This proprietary wine was the catalyst for a wine-making revolution in which top wine producers began to make red wines from sangiovese alone or blended with cabernet sauvignon. These wines did not follow the formula specified in the wine laws, so they were classified as vini da tavola. Loosely translated, this phrase means wine of the lowest officially recognized quality of ordinary Italian wines that do not fit into Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) regulations. This is unfortunate because most of these wines exceed the expectations of the consumer. This is probably why these same wines are also referred to as Super Tuscans. Contrary to popular belief, Super Tuscans can be both red and white.
The rise of Super Tuscans motivated wine-makers to improve the quality of Chianti. These improvements have helped elevate Chianti from DOC to Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). This change in status means that the requirements for the production of Chianti are quite a bit more strict when compared to the requirements for DOC status.
These days, Chianti is made in seven sub-zones that cover about half of the land in Tuscany. Historically, the best Chianti comes from a small hilly region known as Chianti Classico. This area is so unique that has its own DOCG designation. The Chianti Classico region is known for its inspiring beauty. This beauty is underscored by rolling hillsides that feature vineyards, castles, and stone farmhouses shaded by cypress trees and umbrella pines complimented by olive groves. The lucid softness of the daylight sky there is said to have been brushed on with a feather.
What makes Chianti Classico so unique is the diversity of climate caused by undulating hills and the variations in the surrounding geology. The neighboring Tyrrhenian Sea brings cool, dry breezes that help minimize humidity. This allows the grapes to mature gradually over the long summers of the Mediterranean. DOCG law dictates that Chianti Classico must be composed of 75 to 100 percent sangiovese with up to 10 percent canaiolo, up to 15 percent other red grapes and up to 6 percent white grapes. Chianti Classico Riserva must follow these same guidelines, however, no white grapes are permitted. The common practice nowadays is to omit white wine grapes from both. By law, Chianti Classico Riserva must be aged for at least two years in wood and three months in the bottle. Quite a few are aged longer and most are aged in small, new French oak barrels. Riservas are only produced during in the best vintage years and only from selected vineyards. These wines are known to develop extraordinary aromas and flavors. Among them are chocolate, cedar, orange, fig, smoke, prune, and salt.
Chianti pairs well with almost all foods. The bright, fruity character allows it to compliment foods without overpowering them. It pairs very well with tomato-based sauces and is the primary reason why it is often paired with pasta dishes. It also pairs well with lighter meats such as chicken, fish, and pork. The subtle flavors of these meats are not masked by Chianti. You can also pair Chianti with roasted garlic, asparagus, and zucchini.
Those in the know are familiar with the Gallo Nero. For the rest of us, the Gallo Nero, or black rooster, is a symbol that appears on the labels of many Chianti Classico bottles. This symbol is the seal of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, a foundation of producers in the Chianti Classico region. The impetus of this organization is to promote the great wines of this region while improving quality and preventing fraud. Since the 1980's, they've sponsored extensive research into winemaking practices and viticulture in the Chianti Classico region, especially clonal research. If you see this unique symbol, it is the mark of a quality wine from this fine winemaking region.
So, there you have it, Chianti -- uncorked! I've always been a fan of Chianti. I'm fortunate enough not to have been around when Chianti was in decline, so I can only reflect upon the many great examples of this great wine that I've had over the years. Chianti is great because it's easy to drink and pairs well with almost any food. If you haven't tried Chianti, I'd recommend giving it a try the next time you have an opportunity. As always, whether enjoying Chianti alone or with friends, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!
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Last Updated on Sunday, 03 April 2011 09:49 |
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Saturday, 26 March 2011 17:15 |
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A COUPLE OF weeks ago, I started experimenting with Sangria recipes. It was a fun exercise that allowed me to play around with all the various ingredients in different ways to see how the finished product would taste. As always, this made me wonder about the history of Sangria. Today, I'll share some of what I learned.
Sangria is a wine punch that has its roots in Spain and Portugal. It's based on the traditional wine punches that were popular all across Europe for hundreds of years. It was introduced to the United States in 1964 at the World's Fair in New York, but by then it had been around for centuries. Traditionally, Sangria is made from red wines and since it has Spanish roots, the typical wines used are Rioja, Tempranillo, and Garnacha, but any good red wine will work. Grapes were planted in Spain about 200 years before the common era by the Romans, who enthusiastically enjoyed the wines from this region -- especially the red ones. Although Sangria is traditionally made from red wines, it can also be made from white wines and sparkling wines as well. In the southern part of Spain, Sangria is often called zurra. This type of sangria is made with peaches and nectarines.
The typical sangria recipe includes red wine, fruit juices, soda, fruit and brandy. The most common mistake in making sangria is the use of low quality wine. You should always use good quality wines. Why make something that you're going to drink using something that you would not drink? If possible, you should chill the wine overnight. This allows the fruit flavors to blend into the drink. Wines such as Rioja, Tempranillo, and Garnacha help add authenticity to your sangria, but by all means choose a wine that you enjoy. If you enjoy white wines, Albarino, Marina Alta, and Verdejo would be the traditional choices, but again, it's your sangria, so choose your favorite. For those who really want to have some fun, try a nice Cava, a sparkling wine that comes from Spain.
Sangria can be enjoyed any time, but it's definitely a great summer drink. The most important thing to remember is that there are as many recipes for sangria as there are grains of sand on the beach, so sangria will not taste the same from place to place. That's not bad news though because sangria is generally good no matter what. Making it at home gives you the freedom to experiment to find the style that you like. Just remember to keep track of what you add to your personal mix so that you can repeat it from batch to batch.
Soon-to-be-famous scientist Erasmus Darwin once said that a fool is a man who never tried an experiment in his life. Not one to be considered a fool, I thought I'd list a few recipes for you to experiment with. This will keep you off of the fools list as well. I've always said that these posts were all about lending a helping hand, so I'm keeping my word.
Red Wine Sangria
2 large oranges, one orange sliced and one orange juiced 1 large lemon, sliced ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup Grand Marnier One 750 ml. bottle of Rioja, chilled
Preparation
Add sliced orange and lemon and sugar to large pitcher. Mash gently with a wooden spoon until fruit releases some juice, but is not totally crushed, and sugar dissolves. Stir in orange juice, Grand Marnier and Rioja. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Before serving, add 6 to 8 ice cubes and stir vigorously to allow even distribution of the fruit and pulp.
White Wine Sangria
1 bottle of Albarino 2/3 cup of white sugar 3 oranges, sliced 1 lemon, sliced 1 lime, sliced 1/2 liter of ginger ale
Preparation
Pour wine in the pitcher and squeeze the juice from the fruit wedges into the wine. Add the fruit wedges to the mix and then add the sugar. Chill overnight. Add ginger ale before serving.
Cava Sangria
1 bottle of Cava, chilled 1/4 cup white grape juice 2 ounces of Cognac 2 tablespoons of sugar 1/2 cup sliced strawberries 1/4 cup sliced raspberries 10 mint leaves
Preparation
Stir the Cava, grape juice, Cognac, and sugar together in a pitcher. Add strawberries, raspberries, and mint. Serve over ice.
So, there you have it, Sangria -- undiluted. The best thing about Sangria is the freedom that you have when making it. There really aren't any hard and fast rules, but there are plenty of recipes with lots of wiggle room for personal improvement. The idea is to use quality ingredients and have fun. The best way to have fun is to invite friends over to try your experiments. The worst thing that could happen is that you run out of sangria in the middle of a good time. Keep notes on your experiments, so that you can recreate the sangrias that you and your friends really like. We'll be trying sangria this summer at our bar. I can't wait to see what people think of our recipes. I really haven't had a bad sangria yet, so my guess is that ours will be a hit. If you're in the area, come by and try some. As always, whether drinking sangria with us or with friends, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!! |
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Sunday, 20 March 2011 09:50 |
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SINCE WE'RE IN the midst of March Madness, I thought I'd take some time to answer some of the questions I've received over the past few weeks. Let's see what we have.
What is J & B?
If you've ever sat at a bar and gazed at the amazing array of bottles behind the bartender, you've no doubt seen a tall green bottle with a bright yellow label adorned with two large red letters and one large red symbol: J & B. This bottle appears almost everywhere, but not many people seem to know what it is. First, J & B is short for Justerini & Brooks Rare Blend Scotch whisky. It's a blend of 42 Scottish malt and grain whiskies. The company was founded in London in 1749 and was originally known as Johnson & Justerini. The company was purchased by Alfred Brooks in 1831 and renamed Justerini & Brooks. The J & B that we are most familiar with, the Rare Blend, is a brand that was created specifically for the American market. The promotional campaign was so successful that when Prohibition ended in 1933, many people in the New York metropolitan area were already aware of it and its sales skyrocketed almost immediately. These days, its the second best-selling blended whisky in the world, just behind the Johnnie Walker brand.
As I said, J & B is a blended Scotch whisky. Over 90% of all whisky produced in Scotland is blended. This type of Scotch contains both malt whisky and grain whisky. Initially, blended Scotch was created as an alternative to single malt whiskies, which were considered too harsh by some. The idea is to combine the various malts and grain whiskies to produce a consistent style. Dewar's, Johnnie Walker, Cutty Sark, The Famous Grouse, Chivas Regal, and Ballantine's are other notable blended Scotch whiskies. Amazingly, J & B isn't bad. The nose hints of honey with light apples, grapes, and bananas. It's sweet and fruity on the palate as well. The finish is the normal hot grainy burn that you'd expect from a blended Scotch. If you're a fan of this sort of distillate and have never tried it, give it a try.
What is B & B?
The easy answer is that B & B is short for Benedictine and Brandy. No one likes an easy answer, so let's dig a little deeper. Benedictine is an herbal liqueur developed by Alexandre Le Grand in the 19th century. Legend suggests that the original formula was developed by monks at the Benedictine Abbey of Fecamp in Normandy. It was an aromatic medicinal herbal beverage made from a complex recipe containing 27 plants, fruits, herbs, and spices which they produced until the abbey was destroyed during the French Revolution. Le Grand is said to have based his recipe on their work. He produced his liqueur under the trade name Benedictine. His family eventually sold the company to Martini & Rossi, which later sold it to Bacardi. Like all of the cool herbal liqueurs, the recipe is a closely-guarded secret, known by just three people at any given time. The actual manufacturing process involves several distillations that are then blended together.
B & B is Benedictine diluted with brandy. Specifically, OTARD Cognac. Remember the rule, not all brandy is Cognac, but ALL Cognac is brandy. The dilution of Benedictine with OTARD Cognac makes the finished product taste less sweet than Benedictine. This blend was first developed in the 1930's when bar patrons began mixing Benedictine with fine French brandy to give it a drier taste. Benedictine is about 40% ABV, while B & B is 43% ABV. Both Benedictine and B & B are excellent digestifs and both are best enjoyed from a brandy snifter. I like B & B because it's less sweet, but they are both very good. One last bit of trivia. Each bottle of Benedictine has the initials D. O. M. on the label. Many believe that this refers to the Dominican Order of Monks. It actually stands for Deo Optimo Maximo, which translates, For our best, greatest God.
What is Trappist beer?
Trappist beer is beer brewed by and/or under the control of Trappist monks. The Trappist order originated in the Cistercian monastery in La Trappe, France around the year 1098 AD. By 1664, the Abbot of La Trappe felt that the Cistercians were becoming too liberal, so he introduced a set of strict new rules in the abbey and the Strict Observance was born. Fortunately for us, the fundamental tenet, that monasteries should be self-supporting, is still maintained. Beer had always been brewed in French cistercian monasteries. The original idea was to brew beer as a way to feed their community, which fell under the rule of self-support. These days, trappist breweries also brew beer to fund their work and for charitable causes. Many of the original Trappist breweries and monasteries were destroyed during the French Revolution, World War I and World War II. Today, there are only seven such traditional Trappist breweries left: six in Belgium and one just across the Belgium border in the Netherlands. The growing popularity of these Trappist beers ensures that we will be able to continue to enjoy them for the foreseeable future. I've mentioned them before, but here is the list of breweries in case you'd like to try some of these unique and delicious brews: Achel, Westvleteren, Orval, Rochefort, Chimay, Westmalle, and La Trappe Koningshoeven.
So, there you have it -- mysteries demystified!! Thanks again for all the questions. I really enjoy answering them. It also keeps me on my toes. I hope that the answers to this week's questions were helpful. As always, whether you're enjoying J & B, B & B, or your favorite Trappist ale at home or with friends, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!
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