Hey Bartender

A FEW MONTHS ago, I did a virtual tour of the Cognac region of France. In that post, I discussed the best known brandy in the world -- cognac. I also discussed the fact that in order for this eau de vie to be called Cognac, it must meet a strictly-defined set of regulations while being produced in certain areas in and around the town of Cognac. If it doesn't meet these criteria, then it's referred to as brandy. If you're following me so far, then you understand that all cognac is brandy, yet not all brandy is cognac.

As a refresher, let's define brandy. Brandy is a spirit produced by distilling wine. That means that the first step is to ferment fruit. There are three basic types of brandy: grape, fruit, and pomace. Unless otherwise specified, the word brandy usually refers to a distillate produced from fermented grapes. Fruit brandies are those that are distilled from fruits other than grapes: apples, plums, cherries, elderberries, blackberries, raspberries, and apricots. Some notable fruit brandies are Calvados, Kirschwasser, and Poire Williams made from apples, cherries, and pears respectively. Pomace brandy is produced by the fermentation and distillation of the skins, seeds, and stems that remain after grapes have been pressed to extract their juices to make wine. The best known pomace brandy is Grappa, a product of Italy.

Brandy is twice distilled, usually in a copper pot still. The first distillation produces a distillate known as low wine. Low wine is approximately 30% alcohol by volume. Low wine is distilled a second time. The first 1% of what is produced from the second distillation is called the head. It has an alcohol concentration of about 83% and has a very unpleasant odor, so it is usually discarded. Sometimes, it's blended with another batch of low wine for a future distillation. When the second distillation is complete, a distillate approximately 70% ABV, known as the heart, remains. This is what will become brandy. The tail, the portion of low wine that remains after the heart is removed, is mixed with another batch of low wine for future use.

Brandy can be aged using three methods. No aging refers to brandy that is not aged before it is bottled. These products are usually colorless. Most pomace brandies are not aged. The best example of this type of aging is Grappa. Single barrel aging refers to brandies that have natural golden or brown coloring. This coloring comes from the oak barrels in which they are aged. Some brandies have their color enhanced by adding color to simulate the appearance of oak barrel aging. Solera aging is a process that entails a fractional blending of brandy in such a way that the finished product is a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over the course of many years. Spanish brandies are sometimes aged this way.

The labels on brandy bottles contain lots of useful, albeit cryptic, information that hints at the brandy's age. A. C. refers to brandy that was aged for two years in oak barrels, while V. S., Very Special, refers to brandy aged for at least three years in oak barrels. V. S. O. P., Very Superior Old Pale, tells us that the brandy was aged at least five years in oak barrels, while X. O., Extra Old, Napoleon, or Vieille Reserve, tells us that the brandy was aged at least six years. Technically, Napoleon only has to be aged for four years. Vintage brandy is stored in a cask until it is bottled with the label showing the vintage date, while Hors d'age are brandies that are so old that their age cannot easily be determined. Ten years is typical and these brandies are usually excellent in quality.

America does produce grape and fruit brandies. California is the leading producer of American brandies. The most popular grape brandies are Paul Masson, Christian Brothers, Korbel, and E. & J. America also produces apple brandy as well. Applejack is an apple brandy that was popular during the Colonial period in America and is thought to have been influenced by Calvados, an apple brandy from the Basse-Normandie region of France.

When we think of quality brandy, we always focus on the great cognacs from France. America also produces quality brandy. Germain-Robin, located in Mendocino County, released it's first brandy in 1987. They use techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation by a family who had produced cognac in France since 1782. These ancient hand-methods have begun to disappear in recent years as large distillation firms have begun to swallow up the smaller distilleries around the world. What makes Germain-Robin's brandy unique is that instead of using thin acidic wines normally used to make brandy, they use premium wines. Germain-Robins brandy is made using premium pinot noir. Among their offerings are a Select Barrel X.O. noted for its astonishing quality, superiority, and complexity when compared to other brandies, and a Single-Barrel brandy that has been rated as perfect. For those who enjoy grappa, Germain-Robin produces amazing examples of this type of brandy as well.

So, there you have it, the mysteries of brandy unraveled -- again. The important thing to remember is that all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac. American-made brandy is produced using the same methods and techniques that its French-produced counterparts employ. The differences between them are usually subtle, but it can always be argued that France had a huge head start and therefore had plenty of time to perfect their time honored, and at times closely guarded, techniques for producing brandy. Germain-Robin has proven that changing one's address does not affect the methods used to produce brandy. Quite frankly, setting up shop in Mendocino County gave them the opportunity to step out of the box and try something that would have been frowned upon in France. Their loss is our gain. So, whether enjoying a snifter of one of the many American-made brandies at home or after a meal at your favorite restaurant, please drink responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!

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