Hey Bartender

AS THE WARM weather months approach, many of us will begin to look at lighter, more refreshing beverages to enjoy. Among the many choices are the myriad of white wines available wherever you shop. Today, I'd like to look at one of the lesser known of those wines -- Grüner Veltliner.

Grüner Veltliner is a white wine grape grown primarily in Austria as well as the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Some experts believe that the grape's origins date back to the reign of the Great Roman Empire. Its name is thought to derive from Veltlin or Valtellina, located in northern Italy. What is known is that the name Grüner Veltliner first appeared in print in 1855. Before that time, the grape was known as Grüner Muskatellar. It wasn't until the 1930's that the name Grüner Veltliner was established as the grapes official name.

Today, Grüner Veltliner is Austria's most important white wine grape. It accounts for about one-third of all white grapes planted there. What makes this particular wine so unique is its versatility. It produces wine styles that span a broad range from light-bodied, easy drinking, fruity wines to complex, full-bodied wines. This broad range of styles gives us wines that fit almost any budget or occasion.

Although Grüner Veltliner is generally used to make still wines, it's also used to make a sparkling wine known as Sekt. The still wines are moderately aromatic. You'll find hints of fresh green beans, lentils, stone fruit, citrus, white pepper, and spice on the nose. Aged Grüner Veltliner has notes of honey. Oak-aged Grüner Veltliner is rare because it doesn't need the influence of new oak barrels to affect its flavor and aroma. Instead, they are usually aged in stainless steel tanks or other neutral vessels. Sometimes, old oak casks are used because they do not lend any flavor to wines aged in them.

The largest wine region in Austria is known as Niederosterreich or Lower Austria, located along the Danube River just north of Vienna. One of its sub-regions, Wachau, has developed a classification system that can be used by those new to Grüner Veltliner to help determine which of the many styles of this unique wine suits their taste. Bottles of Grüner Veltliner from Wachau include one of the following terms: Steinfeder, Federspiel, or Smaragd. Steinfeder denotes a wine that is light-bodied and fruity with an ABV of 11% or lower. Federspiel signals a wine that is classic, typically medium-bodied, mildly fruity, but with more structure than Steinfeder and an ABV between 11% and 12.5%. Smaragd indicates wines that are complex, full-bodied, well-structured and concentrated with an ABV above 12.5%, but usually below 13.5%. Remember that these classifications only apply to Grüner Veltliner from Wachau, but they are helpful when evaluating Grüner Veltliner from Austria in general.

As I said earlier, Grüner Veltliner is quite versatile. It pairs well with a wide array of foods including those foods that pair well with other wines. I like it because it goes well with foods that are otherwise difficult to pair with wines. If you're a vegetable eater, Grüner Veltliner compliments many of your favorites from the farmers market: artichokes, arugula, asparagus, avocado, broccoli, collard greens, green beans, kale, spinach, squash, and zucchini. For those who like their place at the top of the food chain, try Grüner Veltliner with roasted pork loin, veal, lobster, sweetbreads, scallops and shrimp. I'm a huge sushi consumer and Grüner Veltliner pairs very well with all of my favorites, including spicy tuna. If you're a wine and cheese person, Grüner Veltliner pairs well with blue cheese and goat cheese.

Surprisingly, Oregon has become a producer of Grüner Veltliner wines. The mild climate is perfect for growing this cool-climate grape. The oldest vines are said to be located in Salem, OR at Vitae Springs Vineyard. They were planted in 1981. The Oregon versions of this wine are amazingly complex with a variety of flavors including vanilla, peach, nectarine, grapefruit and white pepper. Most of the wines from Oregon are fermented in stainless steel, but a few are blended with wines fermented in neutral oak. Rumor has it that they are all very good.

I've tried several Grüner Veltliner over the years and they were all good. The one that sticks out most in my mind is Hugl Weine Grüner Veltliner. It's pretty intense and concentrated with pleasant citrus and grapefruit aromas with a hint of white pepper. It's full-bodied and dry with a firm mineral backbone that allows it to pair well with just about anything. It's very reasonably priced and great to have around for any occasion.

So, there you have it, Grüner Veltliner -- uncorked. As I mentioned at the beginning, the warm weather months are approaching. Grüner Veltliner is definitely an excellent wine to have around for summer gatherings. The wide array of foods that magically appear at such events will no doubt pair well with this versatile viticultural marvel. If you haven't experienced this wine yourself, I'd recommend giving it a try. As always, whether drinking Grüner Veltliner with char grilled shrimp at a cookout or alone on your back deck, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!

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