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Merlot: The Other Red Wine Grape
Friday, 13 August 2010 12:44
AS PROMISED, THIS week we will return to the things we do best. Since summer is winding down, wine makers around the world, at least in the northern hemisphere, are beginning to think about the upcoming harvest. That gave me the idea of focusing on wine this week. In particular, I'd like to look at Merlot.

Merlot is a red wine grape that is quite often used for blending, but is also used for varietal wines. It is thought to be the offspring of the Cabernet Franc grape, which would make it a sibling to Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere grapes. It was first mentioned in the notes of a Bordeaux official in 1784 when it was noted that this particular grape was the best of the grapes from the Libournais region.

The name merlot is thought to be derived from an Old French word, merle, which refers to young blackbirds (Turdus merula). The color of the grape and the color of this species of bird are remarkably similar. Young blackbirds seem to have a fondness for the merlot grape, so it's quite possible that the name was chosen to reflect this as well.

Merlot grapes are generally identified by their loose bunches of large berries. They have less of a dark blue color than Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Their skin is much thinner with far fewer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon with a much higher sugar content and a lower amount of malic acid. Merlot thrives in cold soil, which is somewhat of a disadvantage because the vines tend to bud early, putting it at risk to damage due to frost. In addition, its thin skin makes it susceptible to rot. When growing merlot, a few things should be taken into consideration. Pruning the vines contributes to the overall quality of the wine the grapes ultimately produce. In addition, reducing the yield also improves the wine's quality. These factors, plus the age of the vines, helps give character to the wine produced by merlot grapes.

Those familiar with French wine production will know that Merlot is the most commonly grown grape in that country. It is prominent in regions such as Bordeaux and Cahors. In Bordeaux, it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. It is also a key component in the Meritage blend that I discussed in a recent post. For the Meritage impaired, Meritage is made-up word that combines merit and heritage and is used to denote red and white Bordeaux-style wines while not infringing upon the Bordeaux region's legal claim to fame.

We grow Merlot in the United States as well. It is a major part of the early history of wine making in California. There are several very good Merlots grown in places like Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey. Merlot also grows very well in Virginia. I've tried Merlots from Barboursville and the Williamsburg Winery and they were both very good. If you're interested in what's going on in the southern hemisphere, Argentina and Chile have begun to produce some quality wines using the merlot grape.

The reason that I enjoy Merlot is that it is medium-bodied and very soft. The flavor profile varies depending on where it is grown. In cooler climates, you tend to find hints of strawberry, plum, and cedar, while in medium climates, you'll find more of a hint of darker fruits such as blackberries, black plums, and black cherries. Merlot grown in warmer climates will often have a hint of chocolate. This makes Merlot very flexible when it comes to pairing it with food. You will find that it pairs with grilled and charred meats as well as salmon, prawns and scallops. It doesn't pair with blue cheeses. These tend to overpower the fruit flavors present in the wine. The active component in chili peppers, capsaicin, which is present in many spicy foods, tends to accentuate the perception of alcohol in Merlot, making it taste more tannic and bitter. This makes pairing Merlot with these types of foods less than ideal for most.

There are several really good Merlots on the market. Sadly, my favorites aren't for the budget conscious. For instance, Duckhorn Vineyards has a very nice Merlot. The 2005 vintage, which is quite delicious, costs about $85. The Stag's Leap Merlot, 2004 vintage, which is also quite delicious, runs about $42. Fear not, there are some very affordable Merlots out there that are just as good. One of my favorites is Chateau St. Michelle from Columbia Valley, WA. It's very good and is priced below $15. You can always visit your local wine shop and ask the wine expert there for recommendations. Maybe you'll get lucky and visit while a Merlot tasting is taking place.

So, there you have it -- Merlot uncorked. Merlot is never the first varietal wine on anyone's list when selecting a wine for dinner, but it's definitely worthy of consideration. It pairs well with a lot of great foods and can also be enjoyed alone in a glass. As I mentioned earlier, it's always a good idea to visit your local wine shop to inquire about their stock of Merlots. They are always happy to answer your questions and steer you toward the perfect wine for your specific needs. As always, when enjoying Merlot from your favorite region of the world, please drink responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!

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