Hey Bartender

SINCE ABOUT 2005, Pinot Grigio has been a popular white wine choice in the United States. In the year or so since I've been living in Richmond, I've probably poured more glasses of Pinot Grigio than any other wine. I'm not sure what has caused its popularity to soar, but I'm quite convinced that it's time to give it a little extra attention.

In the beginning, there was Pinot Gris, a white wine grape known since the Middle Ages in the Burgundy region of France. It is thought to be the descendant of Fromenteau, which is the name associated with several grapes from the medieval period in Burgundy. Thought to be a mutant clone of Pinot Noir, both grapes found their way to Switzerland during the 14th century. Several accounts suggest that it was a favorite of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. During his reign, he had cuttings of Pinot Gris transported to Hungary by Cistercian monks. During the 18th century, a German merchant named Johann Seger Ruland discovered Pinot Gris growing wild in the fields of the Palatinate, a German wine-growing region. Today, Pinot Gris is grown around the world. France, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Hungary, Taiwan and even China produce wines using this grape.

Before you get confused, this post is about Pinot Grigio. The confusion lies in the names that this grape and the wines produced by it are given. For lack of a better term, let's call them synonyms. In parts of France, it's known as Fauvet. In Alsace and the Languedoc, it is referred to as Auxerrois gris and Fromentau, respectively. Austria, Germany, and Romania use the name Ruländer, while here in the United States we use Pinot Gris. So, where does Pinot Grigio come from? Pinot Grigio is a genetic clone of Pinot Gris grown in Italy.

In Italy, Pinot Grigio is often blended with Pinot Noir to enrich and lighten the wine's flavor profile. Pinot Grigio grapes can range in color from bluish gray to pink or brown. The word pinot is French and translates to pine cone, a reference to the fact that the grapes grow in small pine cone-shaped clusters. It grows best in cooler climates and matures relatively early compared to other grapes. The sugar level of these grapes is high, which produces either sweet wines or, if fermented to dryness, dry wines high in alcohol. One important note on wines made from this grape: they should be consumed within two years of their vintage.

Italian wines made from Pinot Grigio are often described as having floral, smoky, and honey flavors with a slight hint of citrus. They are usually dry, crisp white wines that are low in tannins and high in acidity. Generally, Pinot Grigio pairs well with seafood, pork, and chicken as long as these foods aren't prepared with ingredients high in acid.

I've sampled quite a few Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris over the years. Although I'm not a big white wine drinker, a few have stood out in my memory. Trimbach is one producer that stands out. In my notes, I found a description of a 2001 Trimbach Pinot Gris that I really enjoyed. The color was yellow -- almost like a lemon. The nose was very rich. I sensed a blend of apple sauce, pears, mango, apricots and almonds. The palate was full of pears, apricots and cranberries. It was very well-balanced with a nice acidity level. The finish was smooth, giving way to more pears and a hint of citrus. I didn't know it back then, but Trimbach is one of the leading producers of this kind of wine.

Closer to home, I've recently discovered Acrobat Pinot Gris, from King Estates in Oregon. The 2010 vintage has a pale straw color with golden highlights. The nose has pear, melon, orange, lemon, kiwi, and a little spice. The palate has a nice balance between its residual sugar and acidity. I found it to be very clean and refreshing. I'd definitely recommend it if you're interested in trying something new.

Tokay d'Alsace also falls under the Pinot Gris umbrella. It's made from 100% Pinot Gris grapes grown in the Alsace region of France. In 2006, the official name of this wine was changed Tokay d'Alsace to Pinot Gris d'Alsace. The removal of name Tokay was done in an effort to avoid confusion with the Hungarian wine called Tokay. In Hungary, Tokay or Tokaji is the name given to wines from Tokaj-Hegyalja, a wine region in Hungary and Slovakia. Unlike Pinot Gris, these wines are made from six officially approved grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Yellow Muscat, Zéta, Kövérszőlő and Kabar. These wines tend to be super sweet and are typically served with dessert. I've had some of these as well. The sweetness can't possibly be described. You have to sample it yourself to appreciate how sweet this wine can be.

So, there you have it, Malvosie -- uncorked. A Pinot Grigio by any other name is just as good. The name isn't changed to protect the innocent, it's interchanged to reflect the origins of what's in the bottle. Pinot Grigio definitely requires that you know a few of its pseudonyms in order to recognize it when you decide that you're going to look for one in your local wine shop. Fortunately, those who work in such shops are familiar with this subject and are eager to help you find what you're looking for. As always, whether drinking Pinot Beurot, Monemvasia, Gris Cordelier, or Sivi Pinot alone or with friends, please do so responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!