Samuel Smith Brewery

ABOUT A WEEK ago, I had one of those rare nights that causes me to stop at my local beer outlet to find a frosty adult beverage to help ease the frustration. If you've ever worked in the restaurant business, then you know what I mean. As I browsed the beer section, I thought about how great a nice hefe-weizen would be on that hot summer night, so I grabbed a six pack brewed by Paulaner. As I exited the cleverly designed beer cooler with my beer, I spied a bottle that I hadn't seen in a long time. It was like seeing an old friend. I placed the Paulaner back on the shelf and grabbed two rather large bottles of Samuel Smith's Oatmeal Stout.

For most, an oatmeal stout is hardly a summer beer, but for me an oatmeal stout is perfect anytime of year. Samuel Smith's Oatmeal Stout has a special place in the pantheon of beer for me because the Samuel Smith Brewery produces some of the most unique beers I've encountered over the years.

Samuel Smith's Old Brewery is the oldest brewery in Yorkshire, England. It is located in Tadcaster, North Yorkshire and was founded in 1758 by the Hartley family. The story goes that Samuel Smith helped his son John buy the struggling brewery in 1847. John and his brother William took over in 1852. John eventually left the brewery to the oldest son of his brother Samuel, forming a joint custodianship between William and Samuel. William, in turn, bought out Samuel's half of the business and moved it to a new building located next door to the original brewery. Samuel's son, Samuel Smith, inherited the Old Brewery upon William's death. He then reopened the Old Brewery under his name. If you were able to follow all of that, then you'll be happy to know that Samuel Smith's Old Brewery remains the only independent Brewery in Tadcaster.

It turns out that Samuel Smith beers are brewed using a unique process called the Yorkshire Stone Square Fermentation method. This particular technique was developed by Timothy Bentley of Lockwood Brewery near Huddersfield. It was only adopted in Yorkshire and the counties of Lancashire and Nottinghamshire.

The yeast used in this system is unusual because it acts rather slowly and requires frequent rousing and aerating in order for it to work properly. This is due in part to the fact that the yeast has a strong top-fermenting quality which causes it to rise rapidly to the surface of the fermenting wort reducing its ability to covert sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. This produces very full-bodied beers because the finished product retains large quantities of carbon dioxide. The resulting effervescent nature of beers brewed using this method help to protect them from airborne infection during fermentation.

Another uniquely Yorkshire tradition is to dispense beer brewed using the stone square method with a hand-pump fitted with autovac equipment. The agitation caused by the hand-pump displaces most of the dissolved carbon dioxide, yet introduces air into the beer. The air produces the smooth texture and supports the long lasting, creamy head that is always present in Samuel Smith beers.

The stone square system is literally constructed from large slabs of local stone. It consists of four large slabs of stone for the sides and a fifth stone for the base. They are fastened together through recesses cut into the stone which are secured laterally by iron belts. A second square is constructed, which surrounds the first square, but has a narrow gap which allows water to be introduced so as to act as an attemperator. For the attemperator impaired, it is a coil pipe through which hot or cold water may be run in order to regulate temperature. The system is rather complex and since it's made of stone it is very heavy. It is mounted on stone pillars and is made water-tight by applying water resistant cement to all of its joints.

You probably noticed that this brewing process is slightly different than what I've described for other beers. As I mentioned earlier, this particular process is unique to the area around Yorkshire. I'm almost certain that this is the reason why these beers have a unique flavor profile. The strain of yeast used dates back to the early 1900's and the water used to brew these beers comes from the original 85 foot well that was sunk when the site was established in 1758.

Samuel Smith actually has two stouts -- the Oatmeal Stout and the Imperial Stout. I love them both. The oatmeal stout is opaque with an unusually complex and silky texture. It can be described as dry with a bittersweet finish. It pairs well with lots of my favorite foods such as pizza, grilled ahi tuna, beef filets, and Stilton blue cheese. The Oatmeal Stout was actually discontinued just before World War I, however it was reintroduced in 1980.

The Imperial Stout is rich and flavorful with a deep chocolate color. The nose gives hints of roasted barley, malt, hops, yeast, and alcohol. I like to drink this beer alone, but it pairs well with many delicious dishes. Stilton blue cheese, cheesecake, caviar, and Oysters Rockefeller to name a few. For those who enjoy cigars, this beer will even hold its own when enjoyed with a stogy. Despite my habit of drinking this beer from the bottle, it is better enjoyed from a brandy snifter.

Since not everyone enjoys dark beers, I thought I'd also take a look at another favorite of mine from the Samuel Smith line -- Samuel Smith's Nutbrown Ale. This is probably the most beautifully colored beer I've ever seen. The shade of brown reminds me of expensive wood. It's described as walnut-colored, but I'm not sure if that is accurate. The palate gives hints of hazelnut and it has an extraordinary balance of roasted crystal malt and aromatic hops. The finish is heavenly. Again, I like to enjoy this beer alone, but it pairs with lots of great foods. If you enjoy Thai food, Chinese food, spicy food, barbecued duck, pineapple curry or roasted game hen, then the Nutbrown Ale will help enhance your dining experience.

So, there you have it -- Samuel Smith's Old Brewery untapped. You don't have to have a bad day at work to enjoy the beers from this fine establishment, although it is a great excuse to have one or two of them. As always, when enjoying the fine brews from the only independent brewery in Tadcaster, Yorkshire, England, please drink responsibly. Until next time...prosit!!!