Hey Bartender

IT HAS BEEN noted that I have been slack in my coverage of wine this summer.  With that in mind, I'm going to dedicate this week's post to the finest but rarest of the French white wine grapes -- Viognier.  The best description of Viognier is as follows:  If a good German riesling is like an ice skater (fast, racy, with a cutting edge), and chardonnay is like a middle-heavyweight boxer (punchy, solid, powerful), then viognier would have to be described as a female gymnast -- beautiful and perfectly shaped, with muscle but superb agility and elegance.  For those familiar with this great wine, this description says it all.  For those unfamiliar with this particular varietal, let's look a little deeper.

Like any other fine, yet rare thing found on our great planet, the actual origin of Viognier  is unknown.  It is presumed that it's an ancient grape, quite possibly brought to the Rhône region from Dalmatia by the ancient Romans.  Legend suggests that this was done by the Emperor Probus in the year 281 of the Common Era.  The origin of the name Viognier is also shrouded in mystery.  It is thought that it is derived from the Roman pronunciation of the name of a place located just outside ancient Jerusalem known as Gehennae or the Valley of Hell.  If this is true, then the name is probably an allusion to the difficulty in growing Viognier.

The reason for the difficulty in growing Viognier stems from the fact that it is susceptible to a fungal disease known as powdery mildew.  Luckily, this disease is easy to spot because infected plants display white powdery spots on its stems and leaves.  In addition to powdery mildew, Viognier suffers from low and unpredictable yields.  Moreover, it should not be picked until fully ripe.  If harvested too soon, it will fail to develop the full range of flavors and aromas.  If harvested too late, the resultant wines tend to be oily with far less perfume.

The best examples of Viognier come from France, specifically the appellations of Condrieu and Château-Grillet, which are both located on the banks of the Rhône River, just south of Lyon.  These wines are sold as Vin de Pays in the Languedoc.  For those unfamiliar with Vin de Pays, it's a French term that means country wine.  It refers to wines that are just a step above those classified as table wine.  The Languedoc is a former province of France that exists in the modern-day regions of Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées in the south of France.  In the Rhône wine growing region, Viognier is blended with Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache blanc, and Rolle.  In the Côte-Rôtie AOC, up to 20% of red wine blends can legally include Viognier.  This is done to stabilize the coloring of the red wines that the Côte-Rôtie is known for.

As I mentioned earlier, Viognier is rare.  At one point, it was grown almost exclusively in the northern Rhone region France.  In 1965, it was almost extinct.  Fortunately, it's popularity spurred a rise in the number of plantings, not just in France, but around the world.  Argentina, Chile, and Brazil are among the South American countries currently producing great wines made from Viognier.  In Australia, producers in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, and Murray River have begun planting this wonderful grape.

Surprisingly, Viognier grows very well in Virginia.  Despite the difficulties experienced in many wine growing areas around the world, Virginia and Viognier are a perfect match.  The tough vines withstand the early spring frosts while the shape of the grape clusters allows air to circulate among the individual berries reducing the chance of rot considerably.  These conditions allow winemakers in Virginia to produce wines that are comparable to the best wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet AOC.   

When it comes to pairing food with Viognier, you really can't go wrong.  Personally, I like to recommend it to people who are new to drinking wine with meals.  The complex flavors and aromas go well with just about anything from lobster bisque to turkey sandwiches and from chicken marsala to roast duck.  It's about as versatile as a wine can be.  It's a go to wine for me when there is a question as to what wine pairs with a diverse selection of foods.

So, there you have it, vee-oh-NYAY -- uncorked!  If you haven't tried Viognier and you're interested in expanding your wine horizons, then this wine should make your list.  There are quite a few options, so take the time to speak with your local wine expert about the differences among the many countries, regions, and wineries that produce wines made from this varietal.  As I mentioned, Virginia produces some very fine Viogniers.  Barboursville, Horton, and Williamsburg Winery have all produced award winning wines from this ancient grape and all are worth trying.  As always, whether drinking Viognier alone or with friends, please do so responsibly.  Until next time...prosit!!!